Ancient Korean Homes, the Jeonju Ryu Clan House

Andong has always been known as the hometown of scholars, as well as a center of culture. It is famous for Hahoe Village, home of the iconic Hahoe masks, as well as Dosan Seowon[도산서원], a shrine and school built in remembrance of the noble spirit of Toegye Lee Hwang, a civil minister of the Joseon Dynasty.

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In the heart of this town of scholars, we find Musil Village, where the Jeonju Ryu Clan lived together. Their clan house stands here as well.

This old house, built in the late 17th century, is now inhabited by the 17th-generation descendant.

[Interview : Kwon Gyu-hui, 17th-generation Wife of Jeonju Ryu Clan] "I got married when I was 17, and I'm 89 this year. I'm going to live here until I die. Where else would I go ?

[Interview : ] "These lyrics are about Musil Village. An old woman who used to live here taught this to me. She's passed away now".

For her, the ancient house is part of her family.

Another, smaller house stands by the clan house's side. This is the house that Suae Ryu Jin-geol built in 1939 to give his parents a more comfortable life. The house is named after him, and is called Suaedang.

[Interview : Ryu Ho-jin, 24th-generation descendant of Jeonju Ryu Clan] "The clan house is about 500 years old. One of my ancestors came here 500 years ago, and his descendants have been here ever since. The buildings are built in a square formation, and there are five main Andong-style doors that rise higher than the roof".

Suaedang is a well-preserved example of the architectural style of the late Joseon Dynasty. Of the 11 rooms, 9 are open to visitors. The house itself is like a living museum.

[Interview : ] "This lamp was used by my grandfather. We don't use it much anymore because we have electricity, but we still consider it to be very important".

Suaedang is kept by the 24th-generation descendant and his wife. Mun Jeong-hyeon, the lady of the house, is busy today.

She hurries towards the earthenware crocks in the yard, filled with sparkling sun-dried salt.

[Interview : Mun Jeong-hyeon, Owner of Suaedang] "I'm getting some 5-year-old sun-dried salt to use for our family's traditional Chinese yam white kimchi".

Kimchi is a favorite on any Korean dining table, but the kimchi here is special. It is white, and is made with Chinese yams.

[Interview : ] "I married into the family from another region. I noticed that in Andong, people eat a lot of Chinese yam. When I asked my mother-in-law about it, she told me that Chinese yams are good for the stomach, and that's why people here have eaten them for a long time".

Ma, or Chinese yams are specialty produce in Andong, and naturally have been incorporated into family recipes.

Chinese yams contain mucin, which helps to protect the lining of the stomach.

[Interview : ] "I think that certain foods are passed down through the generations because they fit the tastes of the family. If our descendants continue to eat it, they'll grow accustomed to it and pass it on as well".

Next, it's time to prepare the seasoning. All of the flavors are made with fruits, without any artificial ingredient.

With time, the job of making kimchi naturally passed down from mother-in-law to daughter-in-law.

[Interview : Lee Dong-nyeo, Mother-in-law of Mun Jeong-hyeon] "She grew up in the city, and at first I was worried because she had never made any food like this. But she learned everything quickly".

[Interview : ] "My mother-in-law uses Andong dialect, and I use Seoul dialect, so at first there was some difficulty in communicating".

Jeong-hyeon is watched by her mother-in-law as she works. She still must get approval for the most important step in the process: seasoning the kimchi.

I think it'll be just right. At first, I thought it would be a little bland, but it tastes like it'll be well-seasoned.

The kimchi is slowly finished

and another day comes to a close at Suaedang.

The next morning, the village is woken from its slumber with a light autumn rain.

The clear raindrops fall, titter-tatter, from the ends of the old tiled roofs. The sound is unlike anything heard in the city.

Suaedang is filled with a delicious smell as a traditional Korean table is set.

Chinese yams, Andong's specialty produce, fill the table in various forms - as pancakes, pickled, and as white kimchi.

The meal tastes even better when enjoyed with family.

[Interview : Ryu Ho-jin, 24th-generation descendant of Jeonju Ryu Clan] "When I eat with my family and look at the rain outside, my heart feels so refreshed. The food tastes better, too".

After the meal, Jeong-hyeon goes to paint a picture. The hanok is a perfect theme for Korean folk painting.

[Interview : Mun Jeong-hyeon, Owner of Suaedang] "Once a hanok is built, it stays there for a long time to become one with nature. In a similar way, traditional Korean paintings were made slowly over time by applying stone powder to painted paper. I think that nothing important can be made overnight".

Like mother and son, the clan house and the Suaedang are ready to pass down the traditions of Korea and the beauty of hanok to many more generations to come.

[STUDIO]

I suddenly want to eat some yams to fortify my stomach.
And can you imagine drying salt for five years to use it That's something you can only think is natural to do if you live out in the countryside and maintain traditions.
It must be so peaceful to live there.