Film Offers Tips for Prospective Travelers to NK

For those considering North Korea as an option for their next vacation, a documentary "Welcome to North Korea" has something to offer.

The film, currently playing at the Czech Info Center in Seoul until the end of January, was made by Czech film director Linda Jablonska.

She was among 25 Czechs who traveled to North Korea for six days in May 2008.

The director headed into the country with an intention to make a film, carrying long-lens video cameras, which are banned.

"From what I have read and seen on the Internet, it seemed it would be possible to take the cameras into the country", she said as to why she decided to take the risk in an email interview with The Korea Times

The documentary gives an idea on what one can expect from the isolated state.

Freedom has an additional price and travelers have to pay dearly to see North Korea. Jablonska said she paid 2,500 euro for the entire trip that included three days in China and six days in North Korea.

As soon as the group arrived at the airport in Pyongyang, they were introduced to three North Koreans, who were supposed to be their tour guides -- and to watch over them.

The itinerary wasn't for the visitors to decide.

The group was taken to tourist spots, which included Kim Il-sung Square, the Grand People's Study House, a library and a few museums.

"We had absolutely no choice about anything on the program, and we were in the hands of North Koreans from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m"., the director said.

And many things they saw were thick with propaganda.

For example, the group was taken to a war museum where pictures on display and a narrator portrayed the United States as the initiator of the Korean War (1950-1953).

"At school, we were taught just the opposite that the aggressors were them", one in the group said in Czech. "But, I didn't ask because it might have stirred up some awkwardness".

The group was transported by bus, in which they were the only passengers.

Rules and restrictions seemed quite loosened. One of the guides instructed the group that filming or taking pictures from the bus was prohibited, yet didn't really care.

She said her group was quite lucky in that.

"We met some other tourist groups from Europe, and they really could not take any pictures from the bus or train".

One rule that was strictly enforced was a ban on interaction with local Koreans.

Members weren't supposed to separate themselves from the group.

They had to give up on walking off a few meters to look at an apartment building, as soldiers in dark green uniforms were constantly monitoring them.

In an open space in the middle of Pyongyang, the group found themselves also being watched by concealed secret agents.

To prevent interaction, the North Korean authorities even removed local people.

There is a scene where the group found themselves the only ones walking on the sidewalk.

"They closed the sidewalks off for tourists on this side", one visitor said, taking pictures of an empty sidewalk. The opposite side, however, was full of people. "They didn't want us to contact the locals".

According to one German diplomat who recently traveled to North Korea, citizens who engage in conversation with a foreigner can be charged and given a severe punishment.

If lucky, like the Czech group, one can enjoy the unexpected.

While heading to the Demilitarized Zone, the bus had to make an unexpected stop facing a hole ahead in the road. The group offered their help to fill the hole, which meant all 25 being outside the bus, carrying rocks back and forth.

Local Koreans were in proximity, looking on and waving. Yet, it didn't spark spontaneous conversation.

"We could not communicate because of the language barrier. These workers were regular people, and I doubt they had ever heard English", Jablonska said.

Another time, the group was on a library tour. "Suddenly some students started to communicate with them", she said.

The students were very friendly, she added, and it was as if they wanted to show off their English skills.

"The guides didn't want us to talk to them for so long. I really don't know whether the whole situation was prepared or not. Maybe, they wanted to show us that North Korean students study English", she said.

The documentary also advises travelers to prepare for entertainment, which for the Czechs was alcohol.

Watching television wasn't a very good option, because, first of all, a number of channels available were very limited. In the lodgings where the Czechs were staying, the TV had only one channel. Moreover, it's all in Korean and full of propaganda.

The film was released in early 2009 with the assistance of the State Fund for Development of Czech Cinematography.

After the release, director Jablonska was summoned to the North Korean Embassy in Prague.

"The ambassador had copies of interviews I had given to local newspapers", she said, and was upset about the parts that spoke negatively about North Korea.

He said he considered the film as espionage, and would send an official complaint to the Czech Foreign Ministry, but he never did.

The film was also shown in Armenia, the Netherlands, Mexico, Poland, Spain and the United States. The screening at the Czech Info Center was its premiere in Korea. The film was invited to the DMZ Korean International Documentary Festival last October, but ended up not being shown.

Ham Sanghi, a film critic, said, "I've always wanted to travel to Pyongyang, and this film gave me a rare chance to do so vicariously".

Two more screenings will be available on Jan. 21 and 28. It's in Czech with English subtitles. Admission is free.

For more information about the screening, visit the Web site: http://www.mzv.cz/seoul/en/news_and_activities/january_documentary_films_on_
north_korea.html
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The image was shot from a restaurant that was located next to a highway.
/ Courtesy of Linda Jablonska

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